Full Visitor’s Guide to Tuol Sleng Prison (S-21 Genocide Museum)

You don’t visit Tuol Sleng like you do other museums. You prepare for it…mentally. You know those places where the atmosphere drops and the air itself feels heavier as soon as you enter? This is one of them.

The first time I walked into the grounds of Tuol Sleng, I felt the history even before I walked into the first exhibit. By the 30-minute mark, I was taking deep breaths on a bench in the courtyard. But that was largely because I didn’t know it would be that hard.

This visitor guide will tell you exactly what to expect and give you the emotional grounding needed to visit Tuol Sleng Prison with awareness. Take a deep breath, my friend. It’s going to be a wild ride.

Let’s start with the history, then we’ll walk through what you’ll actually see when you visit.

Note: I originally published this post in March of 2024. I’ve recently updated it to include more recent and relevant information for you.

Trigger Warning: Content ahead includes references to genocide and torture.

Rediscovering S-21: Tuol Sleng Prison

Most people have likely heard of the 1976-1979 Cambodian Genocide at least once in their lives. Perpetrated by the Khmer Rouge regime, they killed over 3 million of their own citizens.

In the heart of Phnom Penh is the Tuol Sleng prison, now known as the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, the most vicious detention center among the 176 scattered around the country during that period.

History of Tuol Sleng Prison (S-21)

Before the darkness descended, Tuol Sleng was an ordinary high school.

In 1976, after the Khmer Rouge had taken over the city and driven out most of its citizens, all 5 school buildings were transformed into Security Prison 21 (S-21), the epicenter of a genocide that would scar the nation for decades to come.

Khmer Rouge Takeover and Intentions

After 5 years of a pro-American republic under Prime Minister Lon Nol, and about 8 years of constant carpet bombing (roughly 1965-1973), the Cambodian public was ready for a pro-Cambodia leader.

So when the Khmer Rouge successfully seized power in Phnom Penh, they were welcomed into the city like heroes. Little did the public know that they were in for something much more sinister.

Led mostly by a handful of French-educated masterminds, the Khmer Rouge intended to drive out ALL foreign influences and build a true self-dependent Cambodian nation at the cost of its own citizens.

Their plan was to first get rid of any government officials with ties to Lon Nol, intellectuals who could inspire people and organize a rebellion, monks, and religious figures.

At the same time, they would use working-class labor to build orchards and rice fields to sustain the nation without relying on imports.

The Lies That Drove the Evacuation

As soon as the Khmer Rouge arrived in Phnom Penh, they started telling people that the Americans were about to drop a massive bomb on the city and that people needed to evacuate to the countryside.

The citizens were told that the leave would be temporary, lasting 3 days at most, so they all left voluntarily.

Of course, no one ever came back from the countryside.

They were all subjected to long days of hard labor with nothing but a small bowl of boiled rice water to eat per day until the end of the regime in 1979. Hundreds of thousands of workers died from heat exhaustion and starvation in the fields.

Who Was Imprisoned at S-21?

As citizens were filing out of the big cities to work in the fields, the Khmer Rouge would stop anyone who:

• Spoke French
• Had glasses on
• Carried a briefcase
• Had soft hands
• Foreigners

These and a handful of other qualities were clocked as “intellectual or enemy traits.” Once caught, they were blindfolded and thrown into the detention centers that had been set up for the “enemies” in big cities around the country. S-21 in Phnom Penh was the most notorious of them all.

The highest-ranking officials from the previous government, high-profile monks, and intellectuals were detained and tortured for information in Tuol Sleng.

Towards the end of the regime, suspicion grew among the Khmer Rouge ranks, so they started sending some of their own officers here as well.

What You’ll See at Tuol Sleng Today

Transformed into a museum, Tuol Sleng stands as a guardian of memory. Its exhibits—ranging from haunting photographs of victims to the remnants of the cells they were kept in—offer a stark reminder of the past atrocities.

I will show you only a snippet of what I saw in there before sharing any visitor information.

Keep in mind that these photos and descriptions don’t do the place justice. Its energy is something you can only experience in person. It is heavy and somber, but all the more reason for us to not turn our eyes away.

In the entrance courtyard, you will see 14 white tombstones, built to commemorate the 14 deceased victims found inside the cells after the Khmer Rouge had fled the city in 1979. Their names were unknown, but their memories will always live here in this courtyard.

To the right of these tombstones, you will find the main courtyard lined with benches everywhere. These benches are for your use, and very necessary. I promise you will need to leave the buildings and sit down at least once during your visit.

It was wild to see the cells and rooms… Traces of academic settings were clearly there, especially because I came from a similar culture with similar-looking schools. But instead of blackboards and bookshelves, you’ll see torturing devices and chains.

The ventilations above doors and windows were cemented shut to prevent any possibilities of escape.

In this photo above is one of the torturing devices inside Tuol Sleng. It used to be a rope-climbing place that students enjoyed during semester exam breaks.

During the Khmer Rouge regime, they’d hang prisoners up by ropes on the high bar. When the prisoner passed out, they’d lower him into water jars filled with human waste to wake him. When he came to, they’d raise him back up again.

This would go on until he agreed to give up information.

Discipline of the Security

There were 10 rules that the political prisoners of Tuol Sleng were to follow. Below are the wildest ones.

• You must answer my questions immediately without wasting time to reflect.
• While getting lashes or electrification, you must absolutely not scream or cry out.
• Do nothing. Sit still and wait for my order.
• For every infringement of the rules, 10 lashes or 5 shocks.

Yeah…

Most of the rooms inside building B had rows and rows of photos and informational plagues on the prisoners of S-21 and what was done to them.

This photo above was the only one of the prisoners that I took in honor of his memory pre-Khmer Rouge, a brilliant lawyer punished for his intellect.

Tuol Sleng Visitors’ Information

• 🕙 Hours of Operation: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM
• 💵 Admission Ticket: US$ 5
• 📍 Address: St.113, Boeung Keng Kang III, Boeung Keng Kang, Phnom Penh
• ⏳ Time Needed: About 2 to 2.5 hours
• 🎧 Audio Guide: Highly recommended (US$ 3)
• ❌ Tour Guides: Avoid personal tours. It disrupts the respectful silence.

I highly recommend getting the audio guide, so you can hear the stories as you explore the museum. You will see guides waiting to take people on an in-person tour as well.

When to Visit and What to Pack

Have you made up your mind to go to Cambodia? This section should help you start planning. More at the end of the post!

Best Time to Visit Phnom Penh

There are different times you can visit depending on what you need. Most people would say between November through May, but here’s the bottom line:

• Do NOT visit between March and May if your heat tolerance is low.
• Do NOT visit after October if you expect lush green nature.

For those interested in the culture, history, and temples, visiting while nature turns a little brown during the dry season should be okay.

But if you expect to see the lush greens of the tropics, go between September and October. It’s the tail end of the Monsoon season, so you’ll have enough dry days and still have the greens.

What to Pack

• Light fabric, but modest outfits. Think sleeved t-shirts and elephant pants.
• Tissues: You may end up bawling in the courtyard.
• Sunscreen: This is very important, considering the sun is somehow even stronger in Cambodia than in Thailand (I said what I said). I recommend this vegan and nature-friendly one. In case you’re heading south to swim in the ocean next!
• Water bottle: It is HOT there. Stay hydrated and reduce plastic waste while you’re at it!

What to Read / Watch Before Visiting

To enhance your experience even further, I recommend watching and reading more about the human stories behind the Cambodian Genocide. Below are some of the best movies and books I know on the subject.

• First They Killed My Father
• The Killing Fields
• Voices from S-21

After Your Visit: Reflection and Cultural Resilience

Visiting Tuol Sleng was one of the most intense experiences I’ve had while traveling so far. I left with a massive headache, and I cried so much sitting in the courtyard.

But I don’t believe we should avoid visiting such somber places when we travel, especially when it contributes so much to shaping its current culture.

After gathering myself, I came to realize that no matter where I went in Phnom Penh (and Siem Reap, too), people were smiling. These were the people whose history, culture, families, and livelihoods were savagely torn apart not 40 years ago.

Somehow, they’ve bounced back and are offering kindness to everyone.

Maybe, just maybe… we could all take a page from their book.

Final Thoughts

Tuol Sleng, with its somber history, is an important site of memory and education. It reminds us of the dark chapters in human history, urging us to remember, reflect, and learn. The resilience of its survivors and the preservation of their stories is a testament to the enduring strength of the human spirit.

We visit temples and beaches, but places like Tuol Sleng remind us of what people have survived. It makes us appreciate the resilience of mankind and respect the locals even more.

Have you visited a heavy place like Tuol Sleng on your travels before?

FAQ: Visiting Tuol Sleng

More on Traveling to Cambodia

First, check whether or not you’ll need a visa to enter Cambodia. I always use iVisa to check my travel requirements. You’ll also need a passport that will remain valid for 6 months after the entry date.

Weather

The weather from September through November ranges from 79-92°F (26-33°C). It drops a little bit further from December through January at 77-86°F (25-30°C).

If you decide to visit between March and May, be prepared for a constant 90°F and above (32°C+).

Calling Options

Although the SIMs are available in local phone shops, I always recommend getting an eSIM package before you travel, so you can have data and calling options while keeping your home number.

I’m always working while traveling, so I’m extra empathetic to those who need to make calls home while abroad.

One of the best E-SIM providers on the market is AIRALO. Their best monthly plan with 20GB’s worth of data is usually $40, but it can get even cheaper depending on the country.

Currency

As of March 2024, establishments in Cambodia accept 2 currencies: the Cambodian Riel (KHR) and the United States Dollar (USD). One Dollar usually equals around 4,000 KHR.

Getting Around

The standard Rideshare App in Cambodia is GrabTaxi. If you also plan to travel between cities, I recommend finding vans and buses through 12GoAsia. It’s a website I always use to find my inter-city rides in Southeast Asia, and it has worked really well in both Cambodia and Thailand.

>>Find Inter-City Rides via 12GoAsia<<

📌 Pin this for later

If you like it, share it!

Sharing is caring!