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ByPetra Udomprasert Updated on

Suwon’s Hwaseong Haenggung: Is It Worth Your Time?

Should you make time to visit Hwaseong Haenggung when you’re in Suwon? If you appreciate a palace where there’s almost no one else around, then absolutely yes.

I’ve been to Haenggung, the Temporary Palace, twice between my 17 visits to Seoul, so I can attest to how quiet it was. I never had to wait for people to leave when trying to take photos. Literally could just snap empty photos. It was wild.

Plus, you don’t need more than two hours to thoroughly explore the place, so you can easily pair it with a stroll around the Hwaseong Fortress, too.

If you’re a cultural nerd like I am, keep reading to plan a visit to Haenggung, and find out exactly what’s worth seeing inside. I include casual itineraries that will help you pair it with the fortress!

What Is Hwaseong Haenggung?

Haenggung (행궁 / 行宮) directly translates to “Travel Palace.” It refers to temporary palaces in cities around the country where the king stayed during his travels.

Hwaseong Haenggung, specifically, is the temporary palace that King Jeongjo built to accompany the Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon. It was where he’d stay when he visited his father’s grave nearby.

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🗓️ Pre-Designed Itineraries (by me 🙋🏻‍♀️):

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🎟️ Day Tour with This Palace Included: Suwon Hwaseong Tour

Red gate with a blue and red taegeuk symbol at Hwaseong Haenggung, a historic Korean temporary palace in Suwon, set against a green hillside under a clear blue sky. The wide stone pathway leads directly to a courtyard gate, emphasizing the traditional architecture.

Suwon, the “Almost” Capital City of Korea

Jeongjo, the 22nd king of Joseon, was a reformer, well-known for the many grand visions he had and achieved during his peaceful reign.

One of his missions was to relocate the capital and seat of government to Suwon.

Although he passed away before this goal could be realized, Suwon is blessed with the brilliant Hwaseong Fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage, thanks to him.

A Tribute to a Crown Prince

Jeongjo’s father, the Crown Prince Sado, grew up abused and became a violent man. The court wanted him executed after he threatened the life of a court official’s son.

To save his grandson (Jeongjo), King Yeongjo avoided trying his son (Sado) as a criminal. Instead, he ordered the crown prince to climb into a wooden chest and stay in there until he starved to death. It took over a week.

Jeongjo was only 10 years old when this happened.

Still from the film The Throne (2015) depicting a young King Jeongjo visiting Crown Prince Sado’s rice chest, a powerful symbol of royal tragedy.
A tragic scene from The Throne (2015): Prince Jeongjo visits his father in the rice chest. Image from KStation TV

Moving his father’s grave to Suwon and building a grand city close to it was one of King Jeongjo’s first orders of business when he ascended the throne.

And where the king frequented, naturally, a palace was built to accommodate his time there.

Royal Banquets at Hwaseong Haenggung

While Hwaseong Haenggung was normally used as the Suwon government office, King Jeongjo would stay here and hold special events during his visits to the city.

The biggest event in history was arguably the Eulmyo Hwaseong (을묘화성) procession, a grand ceremonial walk from Changdeokgung in Seoul to Hwaseong to celebrate his mother’s birthday and visit his father’s grave in 1795.

Easiest Way to Get From Seoul to Suwon

The easiest way to get to Suwon from Seoul is by metro! The ride from the center of Seoul to Suwon takes 1.5 hours. While not the fastest, it’s the most convenient and requires the least planning.

From whichever station in Seoul, get yourself onto line 1 (dark blue on the map) or Suinbundang (yellow). Kakao Metro comes in handy for this route planning.

Get off at Suwon Station and use exit 7. You’ll see the central bus stop right in front of you.

Curved bus terminal outside Suwon Station, with covered waiting areas, passengers in line, and a shopping mall building visible in the background.

From the main bus stop across the street from the KTX station, and right next to the metro exit 7, there are a few buses you can take. I recommend 60, 66, 66-4, or 400-A. Get off at “Hwaseong Haenggung (화성행궁)“

The ride costs 1,450 KRW each way, so either have your T-Money card or cash ready.

Hwaseong Haenggung Visitors’ Information

Don’t miss the martial arts show every day at 11 AM and the guards ceremony every Saturday at 4 PM. Both shows are performed in front of the main gate. No entrance tickets required to watch!

Hand holding a Hwaseong Haenggung admission ticket dated May 7, 2025, showing a price of 2,000 KRW with the palace in the blurred background.

Things to See Inside Hwaseong Haenggung

Hwaseong Haenggung is one of the best temporary palaces in terms of scale and function.

While most temporary palaces are constructed with the bare minimum necessities for a few nights’ stay, you’ll find much more here.

Let’s look at the most important structures inside.

Sinpungnu Gate (신풍루)

The name means “New Hometown,” reflecting the love King Jeongjo had for Suwon.

This main gate is the first thing you’ll see from afar as you walk across the massive Haenggung Plaza. (Walking across this plaza in the summer is death itself, so bring a fan. 💀)

Sinpungnu Gate at Hwaseong Haenggung decorated for daily performances, with traditional flags and a wide courtyard used for martial arts shows.

Catch the Martial Arts Performance every day at 11:00 AM, and the Royal Guards Ceremony on Saturdays at 4:00 PM. I got to see the martial arts show, and it was amazing. Real swords!

These performances run about 30 minutes, during which you’ll be asked to enter the palace through a side door to the left of the ticket office.

Bongsudang Hall (봉수당)

This is the king’s main audience hall, and where the banquet was held during King Jeongjo’s birthday celebrations for his mother.

Front view of Bongsudang Hall, the main audience hall of Hwaseong Haenggung, with a black-tiled path leading up to its raised platform and red-pillared facade.

Inside the hall, you’ll see wax figures and banquet arrangements on display.

The name “Bongsudang” means “Live to a Great Age.”

Replica of the royal throne inside Bongsudang Hall, with a vibrant five-peak folding screen, wooden platform, and seating cushions for court audiences.
Traditional banquet setup inside Bongsudang Hall, featuring colorful rice cakes, fruit towers, and floral displays used in royal celebrations.

Gyeongnyounggwan Gate Pavilion (경룡관)

To the left of Bongsudang is the Gyeongnyounggwan Gate Pavilion. This structure is both a building and a gate, one of its kind among all the palaces in Korea.

Gyeongnyounggwan Gate Pavilion at Hwaseong Haenggung, a two-story gate and building hybrid used to separate public space from the king's private quarters.

The pavilion was first constructed on elevated pillars to give it a sense of grandeur. A gate was then installed to prevent unauthorized access to the sleep chamber inside.

Jangnakdang Hall (장락당)

Jangnakdang Hall, built for King Jeongjo’s mother, with wide stone steps leading up to a red-pillared structure used as royal sleeping quarters.

Behind the gate pavilion is Jangnakdang, built in 1974 as a hall for King Jeongjo’s mother during her Eulmyo birthday celebrations.

Later, when Joseon kings visited the tombs of King Jeongjo and Crown Prince Sado for rituals, they’d use this hall as a sleeping chamber.

Bongnaedang (복내당)

Bongnaedang is one of the most well-hidden halls in the temporary palace, located in the innermost corner of the grounds.

Front of Bongnaedang Hall, King Jeongjo’s original sleeping quarters at Hwaseong Haenggung, with a simple red-and-green wooden frame and a Hanja sign.
Traditional Korean kitchen display in Bongnaedang Hall at Hwaseong Haenggung, featuring stacked baskets, stone cookware, and wooden utensils on shelves and hooks.

You have to go through quite a few gates and walk through a few courtyards to find it.

It was originally built in 1789 as King Jeongjo’s sleeping chamber. After Jangnakdang was built in 1794, it became the magistrate’s space instead. I love the little kitchen attached to it.

Yuyeotaek (유여택)

Exterior of Yuyeotaek Hall at Hwaseong Haenggung, a traditional red-and-black tiled building where King Jeongjo met subjects and held state exams, with signage identifying the structure in Korean.

If you turn left and go through a gate before reaching Bongsudang’s courtyard, you’ll find Yuyeotaek, used as a villa for the local magistrate.

Whenever the king visited, he would meet with his subjects and hold state examinations here.

After King Jeongjo’s death in 1800, his portrait was also enshrined here before being moved to Hwaryeongjeon.

Byeolju: The Detached Kitchen (별주)

Outside the palace walls next to Yuyeotaek, you’ll find the newest addition to the palace, the Detached Kitchen.

Exterior view of the newly added Detached Kitchen at Hwaseong Haenggung, with traditional black tile roofing, stone walls, and light wooden framing.

This was where the king’s meals and ritual offerings were prepared.

How new is it exactly? I’m not sure, but it didn’t exist when I visited in October of 2022. It appeared when I went back in 2025.

Interior of the Detached Kitchen’s guest hall, with exposed wooden beams, woven mats, and a colorful floral folding screen labeled “태평성대.”
Exterior of the newly built Detached Kitchen at Hwaseong Haenggung, with unpainted wooden doors, pale walls, and a neatly maintained courtyard.

I could still smell the finishings on the wood as I walked around the complex.

Uhwagwan (우화관)

You can think of this building as a guest house of the Suwon government.

Officials and envoys visiting the government office would stay in the rooms on either side of this long building. In the middle is a shrine honoring the king.

Uhwagwan guest house at Hwaseong Haenggung, a long red building with teal doors used to host visiting officials and perform royal ceremonies.

Local heads of state in Suwon would perform ceremonies here to acknowledge the king’s sovereignty twice a month.

Hwaryeongjeon Shrine (화령전)

Built in the first year of King Sunjo’s reign, Hwaryeongjeon is a shrine dedicated to his father, King Jeongjo.

Simple, unpainted facade of Hwaryeongjeon Shrine, dedicated to King Jeongjo, surrounded by trees and built away from the main palace grounds.

Unlike other palaces and holy structures, the shrine isn’t painted in red and green, but left simple under King Jeongjo’s will.

Hwaryeongjeon is detached from the rest of the palace. You can find it by exiting to the right from the Bongsudang courtyard, or walking around the outer perimeter from the rear garden.

Mirohanjeong Pavilion (미로한정)

Skip this pavilion, and you’ll miss out on the coolest way to look at Hwaseong Haenggung.

Panoramic view of Hwaseong Haenggung’s tiled rooftops and Haenggung Plaza from Mirohanjeong Pavilion, framed by pine trees and distant high-rises.

Situated at the top of the palace’s rear garden, this pavilion reflected King Jeongjo’s 1804 retirement plan.

Surrounded by the sound of nature and overlooking the entire palace complex, its name means “a pavilion to relax in old age.”

Shaded walking path through the rear garden of Hwaseong Haenggung, with views of the palace rooftops and Suwon city beyond.
Mirohanjeong Pavilion in the rear garden of Hwaseong Haenggung, with bright green rafters and red columns, offering a view over the palace.

The king never got to abdicate and enjoy this pavilion, as he died in 1800, but you can spend a few quiet moments admiring Haenggung in his stead.

Is It Worth Visiting If You’re Already Seeing the Fortress?

If you’ve seen the palaces in Seoul many times and you’re in Suwon mainly for the fortress, I’d say you don’t have to visit Haenggung. However, consider these factors below before you decide.

  • The ticket is only 2,000 KRW for a much more peaceful experience than in the Seoul palaces.
  • It takes less than 30 minutes to see the most important buildings if that’s all you have.
  • Really don’t want to enter? At least don’t miss the 11 AM martial arts show at the gate!

How to Combine It with the Fortress Wall

If you’re as crazy as I am, feel free to spend an hour or two inside Haenggung, and another 3 hours walking the entire fortress. But here are some alternatives for combining the two for a shorter part of your day.

  • Half-Day Plan: Morning palace visit and mid-morning walk from Paldalmun to Janganmun.
  • Full-Day Plan: Palace in the morning. Hike counter-clockwise up the Paldal Mountain in the afternoon instead.

Follow this day trip itinerary I used with the palace visit, or book this half-day tour to visit both the palace and fortress wall from Seoul without having to plan anything!

Browse the rest of my South Korea guides for more ideas from Seoul!

Helpful Travel Tips for South Korea

Most visa-free visitors to South Korea need a K-ETA in order to enter Korea. Check if you need one and apply about a week before you travel. This replaces the arrival form.

Read up on how to get from Incheon into the city, so you don’t run into surprises.

Don’t forget to learn some important dos and don’ts in Korean culture, as well as some useful Korean phrases, before you arrive!

Find a Place to Stay in Seoul

Looking for somewhere to stay? Use the map below! Feel free to refer to my guide on Seoul neighborhoods and figure out which area suits your needs best!

Grab My South Korea E-Checklist

To make sure you don’t leave anything important out of your preparations, I’ve made a digital checklist to help you get ready. I leave 2 pages blank for you to customize your own checklist, too!

FAQs: Hwaseong Haenggung Palace

  • How much time should I spend at Hwaseong Haenggung?

    You’ll need around 30–45 minutes on average. This depends on how deeply you want to read the info plaques. To have a slower, more introspective experience, I recommend setting aside at least an hour.

  • Do I need to buy a separate ticket from the Hwaseong Fortress?

    There’s no ticket required to hike the fortress wall. You can just walk up there for free. I’ve read a few articles about having to pay 1,000 KRW to some guards before going up. That’s not true.

  • Is there English signage inside?

    Yes, there is! Every single information plaque inside the temporary palace is bilingual. For some of the more important buildings, like Bongsudang, you’ll even find Japanese and Chinese on the signs, too.

  • Can I visit even if I skip the fortress?

    I’m not sure why you’d want to skip the Hwaseong Fortress when you’re visiting Suwon, but yes, you can. The palace is a standalone site with its own rich history. For the love of god, though, don’t skip the fortress!

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Pinterest graphic for a Hwaseong Haenggung travel guide featuring the palace's front gate with a blue and red taegeuk symbol, framed by forested hills under a clear blue sky. Overlay text reads “Suwon Hwaseong Temporary Palace Complete Visiting Guide” and “www.polyglotpetra.com”

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Petra Udomprasert is a career immersive travel blogger and the founder of Polyglot Petra. Believing in travel as a force that inspires empathy and respect in our world, she writes travel guides that deeply explore the history and culture of every destination she visits, leveraging her fluency in five different languages to access the local perspective. Through her immersive guides and localized language tips, she has helped tens of thousands of travelers enjoy trips that leave lasting positive impacts on their lives.