A Guide to Parque Lage: Rio de Janeiro’s Hidden Gem

You’ve probably seen Parque Lage on your Instagram feed before. The Roman mansion with Christ the Redeemer high up on the mountain in the background.

But most tourists just snap the famous photo and leave! Can you believe that?!

There is so much more waiting for you behind the mansion, from mystical watch towers, a magical cave full of stalactites, and the trail up to Christ the Redeemer.

How do I know this? I went back to Parque Lage at least 5 times during the 3 months I spent taking a Portuguese course in Rio. Whenever a friend asked if I wanted to do the big trail up to Cristo with them, my masochistic self said yes!

Let’s get you acquainted with this hidden gem of Rio de Janeiro, beyond the Roman Mansion. Here’s everything you need to know to explore Parque Lage like a local!

A Brief History of Parque Lage

Originally a sugar mill that extended from its location south to the edge of Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, Parque Lage has passed through many owners.

In 1811 a Portuguese Cavalry Officer bought the land from the mill owner. In 1840, an English landscape architect was commissioned to repurpose the land into a garden. By 1860, the park ownership had passed to Antônio Martins Lage.

The land was purchased again in 1960 to house the headquarters of TV Globo. This time, the entire park was converted into a public space for locals and visitors to enjoy.

3 Ways to Get to Parque Lage

Parque Lage is not close to any subway station, but that doesn’t mean it’s difficult to get to. \

1. By Bus

So many buses stop right in front of the entrance to Parque Lage, I can’t possibly list them all, but here are some of them: 109, 309, 409, 439, 538, 548, and 583.

Learn more about how to use and pay for the buses in my Guide to Rio de Janeiro Public Transportation.

The stop for westbound buses coming from Botafogo is located toward the center of the park, closer to the west entrance. The stop of eastbound buses to Botafogo is right across the street from the west entrance.

2. By Uber

If you’re tired, short on time, or just straight up too lazy to navigate public transportation, Uber is super affordable in Rio. It shouldn’t cost you more than US$5 to go from most parts of the city.

3. On Foot (If You’re Near Lagoa or Ipanema)

I’m serious. It’s very doable if you’re near Lagoa or Ipanema. I’ve walked around the entire Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas and never felt unsafe at any point.

The walk should take you around an hour coming from Ipanema, which is one of the best areas to stay in the city, by the way!

Parque Lage Visitor Information

• Park Hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM daily
• Free Admission
• Location: R. Jardim Botânico, 414 – Jardim Botânico, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, 22461-000

Things to See and Do Inside Parque Lage

Don’t just stop at the Roman Mansion! Many curiosities await you past the mansion parking lot.

Admire the Famous Roman Mansion

Of course, the mansion comes first. It is the first thing you’ll see, after all.

In 1920, Antônio Martins’ grandson, Henry Lage, became the new owner of the park. He commissioned the Italian architect Mario Vodret to build a Roman-style mansion for his wife, the Italian opera singer Gabriela Besanzoni.

For the next few decades, elites and the most important people in the city would attend grand parties hosted by Besanzoni.

Today, the mansion houses the School of Visual Arts (Escola de Artes Visuais) and occasionally holds art exhibitions open to the public.

When you walk up the front staircase, you’ll see a line. The line is for people to take THE Instagram shot in front of the pool and the courtyard. If you don’t plan on getting that shot, you don’t have to line up!

Have an Upscale Brunch at Plage Café

Also inside the mansion is the fancy brunch place, Plage Cafe, right in the main courtyard.

I have NOT been to the café, but I’ve taken a look at the menu and seen the café vibes as I explored the mansion courtyard.

The price is more expensive than usual for Rio, but a solid option for a hearty brunch. Here, you can have a bowl of salad, omelets, sandwiches, or even more typical Brazilian dishes like Picadinho.

Lavanderia dos Escravos

The first thing you’ll find tucked away in the northeastern corner is a small stairway that leads down to an abandoned chamber with a low, round ceiling and a long basin in the middle.

This is A Lavanderia dos Escravos, translated directly to “The Slaves’ Laundry.”

You may think this little chamber looks a bit haunting (I did, which was why I ran before even taking a photo of it). It’s probably because it was never a happy place.

Back when the land was part of the sugar mill, the slaves would come here to wash clothes for their noblemen.

Gruta: The Artificial Caves

These artificial caves were a part of John Tyndale’s design when he repurposed the sugar mill.

The caves are small and can be explored in under 10 minutes. The stalactites and stalagmites are beautiful and get even more interesting when you realize they’re all artificial.

From Gruta, you can climb the stairs inside the cave (or enter the upper part from the front) and cross the back bridge that connects it to the upper trail.

Lago dos Patos: The Duck Pond with a Waterfall

This is a great spot to sit and take a break as you watch koi fish swim in the pond. There is also a small waterfall for some extra nature ASMR. I must have stood there for at least 10 minutes myself.

Hidden Watch Tower and Other Surprises

The park is full of other surprises, even things that are not marked on the map. As I was trying to find the Corcovado trailhead on my first visit, I stumbled upon this mystical-looking doorway.

So I followed it and climbed up the rocks to find the remains of a small watch tower! It looks as abandoned as it is, but not a bad spot to sit and hang out away from other park visitors for a bit.

I would be very careful climbing up, though. The path is very narrow, and you could end up scratching your legs or twisting your ankle.

Hike the Corcovado Trail to Christ the Redeemer

From behind Gruta, if you continue along the trail towards the right, you’ll find the trailhead to the epic Corcovado hike that leads you up to Christ the Redeemer.

Best Time to Start the Hike

I strongly advise against taking the trail after 3 pm, especially if you’re a slower hiker. The trail takes between 2 to 2.5 hours, and it gets dark a lot faster under all the trees.

Trail Conditions and What to Pack

I recommend dressing comfortably and wearing good shoes. Bring your passport. You’ll need the information to register with the ranger at the trailhead for safety.

It gets dark quicker inside, so don’t forget to bring insect repellent!

Best Time to Visit Parque Lage

The weather in Rio de Janeiro is humid and warm year-round, with winter days between 65-80°F (18-26°C) and summer days between 76-100°F (24-37°C).

No matter if you’re visiting in the winter (June-August) or for hot summer days and the Carnaval (December-March), I suggest packing layers that you can put on or take off.

The weather can get surprisingly chilly with the ocean breeze, and even colder in the forests.

Follow My Itinerary for Rio de Janeiro!

Got several days in Rio de Janeiro? Why not follow my 4-day itinerary and get a mix of must-visit places and some more local experiences I found during my 3 months there?

Included on the itinerary are Christ the Redeemer, a visit to Ilha da Gigóia, this park, a meal at Garota de Ipanema (where the song was written), and more!

Visit my Brazil Immersive Travel page for more guides in Rio, São Paulo, Paraty, and Iguazu!

Staying Safe in Rio de Janeiro

I hate how “famously dangerous” Brazil is when I never felt that terrible throughout three months of my stay there. Was the danger real? Yes. But you just have to know how things work.

Learn what to do to navigate the risks and stay safe before you go, and for extra bonus with the locals, read up on some of their cultural points.

Here are some basics to get you started on safety.

• Have a copy of your important documents (passport and any travel documents) saved on your phone and other devices, just in case they get stolen.
• Dress down. This city is not for showing off your riches on the street.
• Avoid taking long walks alone. Even in the safest countries in the world, it takes crossing ONE street to feel the difference between a safe neighborhood and a less safe one in the city.
• If you get robbed, do NOT fight the assailant, as you don’t know whether or not they have a weapon. Give them what they want and immediately report the incident to the police.

Other Helpful Travel Resources for Brazil

• Make sure you protect your trip with a travel insurance.
• Get this eSIM for local data without giving up your number.
• Must-have Apps: Google Maps, Uber, WhatsApp

As a bonus, grab a copy below of the template I created and personally use to plan my own trips. It’s completely free for you!

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